That was a long week. And we’re only halfway there, we’re currently in Eagle Plains. The Dempster has been pretty spectacular in scenery and merciless with wild weather. I’ll blame our slow progress on the thunderstorms that rip through our path turning our tent into more of a boat and the road into a muddy slip-n-slide. All we can do is take cover and hope that the storm passes quickly.
With the rain comes high flowing rivers which means ferry closures. We were lucky to make it through our first ferry crossing (The Mackenzie river) without delay, however the second ferry crossing at the Peel river posed a much greater challenge. It’s a little funny because the Peel crossing is short enough to throw a rock from one side to the other. The Peel ferry has been closed for 4 days now, only opening for a few hours to let “lite traffic” through and then closing again. Fortunately bicycles don’t weigh very much so we caught a lift with someone in their small fishing boat on the second day of the closure to the other side, bicycle win!
We took an “active rest day” on the first day of the ferry closure, cycling back into Fort McPherson from our campsite to take advantage of their amazing grocery store. After 5 days of eating dehydrated vegetables with some kind of grain, the opportunity to eat real food was not going to be wasted. We also checked out the Fort McPherson canvas and tent company which was super cool and the visitors center which we’ve come to learn is always the best place to get free coffee and tea.
The Dempster has stripped us of any expectations, and for this I’m thankful, we’re in a much better frame of mind to approach the road ahead. Everyone we’ve met has been extremely generous and supportive in what we’re doing. The water/ beer offerings are always appreciated :)